Steeda Mustang GT/V6/BOSS 302/GT500 Jacking Rails (2005-2014)

I give this a thumbs up. Without the rails, it was hard to find a solid spot to jack up my 2005 GT. Now I can put the jack in the center and lift the whole side at once. Downfall ...just wish they had been 1 foot longer to extend back farther.

I added these as I am a home garage person without a lift, and this makes jacking the Mustang much easier Easy to install.

The product came well packaged with a piece of cardboard placed between the rails and both ends tightly wrapped with heat shrinkage plastic wrap and bubble wrap. If you exercise care the rails can be unwrapped with no damage to the excellent finish. The instructions are very good, I'm not giving them an excellent rating because they did not provide torque specs for the bolts or mentioned the use of medium thread locker. But to help those who may purchase this product according to the Service Manual the 18mm headed bolts on the Front Subframe (incorrectly referred to as Cross Brace in the instructions) should be 85 lbs-ft, and the 15mm headed bolts to secure the rear of the Jacking Rails should be 46 lbs-ft. I recommend using medium thread locker (blue) on all 8 bolts. As to installation I would not attempt to do so without having the car lifted whether on a drive-on lift or put on jack stands (not on the pinch welds, that area must be kept clear in order to install the rails!). After removing the front subframe bolts you'll need to use 2 screwdrivers to pry the subframe downward to gain about 1/8-3/16 inch clearance to slip the front plate of Jacking Rail. Center the bolt holes in the rail openings and start at the rear and work toward the front in securing the rail to the car. Obviously, pull the screwdriver from under the Front Subframe before tightening those bolts. My car has not been driven on wet roads and is kept in the garage when not driven. The two threaded openings, on each side of the car, used to secure the rear of the Jacking Rails may be rusted or have debris. If so, determine the diameter and thread pitch and obtain a tap to clean out the threads before attempting to install the new bolts provided. After, spray the threads with BrakeKleen or similar and allow the solvent to evaporate before installing the bolts with thread locker. The exposure (or non-coverage) of the rear-most pinch weld is not an issue as there is plenty of bracing of that weld at this location. I use a QuickJack to lift the car with these rails and it worked perfectly with a rubber supports placed at the back pinch welds and another near the front of the Jacking Rails. I have not tried supporting the car with Jack Stands placed within the length of the Jacking Rails. As I mentioned in the title, there is no interference with the Boss' side exhaust.

Went on nice ,perfect bolt hole location, put the car on jack stands on the rails as soon as I got them on,solid as a rock. :tip get a tap and chase out the rear threads with penetrating oil to clean out the body threads on the back. Get a mirror to align the front holes ,use a small hammer to bang the bar around to align the holes before putting the body k member screws back in. Awesome product,must have for all us shade tree guys with no lift.last pic =rain delay??

Got tired of using a pinch weld adapter every time I changed the oil or rotated my tires. Getting the jack lined up was always a pain in the butt. My Bullitt is lowered about 2" on H&R Super Sport springs so I was concerned about clearance but these sit about 1/4"-3/8" below the pinch weld. Still have to rock the car a bit to get a jack with a puck under there but still way easier than trying to line up the jack with the adapter. The fact that you can raise the whole side of the car is a major plus for rotating tires. These rails also make it so much easier to get 2 jack stands under the car. Getting the front mounts to line up was a bit of a pain having to pry down the k-member but if you can just get it started, using a rubber mallet to tap it the rest of the way works great. I was able to do this install by myself with a couple of 2x4 under the front wheels for work clearance. I would definitely recommend these to anyone who works on their Mustang.

Not too bad to install, but on the convertible you not only have to pry up the front sub frame but you also have to loosen the 3 bolts on each side of the rear support brace and pry up the front of the rear support brace and slide the rear side of the jacking rail under the rear support brace which is actually a bit harder than prying up the front side.

To jack up my Mustang I had to crawl around on the garage floor to position a floor jack on jacking points, not on the pinch rail. As I get older this has become very difficult to do. The jacking rail allows me to position my jack without getting on the floor and I can do the whole side at once. It not only protects the pinch rail, but also my side splitters.

They went on my 2014 Mustang GT flawlessly. I see some people mentioned about them being longer. If you have Steeda Frame rail and Torque Box Brace you will see why Steeda went to the bolt holes they did. I believe running these and the Steeda Frame Rails and Torque Box Braces together make the car stronger. I have them both welded in. It could be in my mind but the car feels way more solid and I hear no more rattles or other noises.

I HIGHLY recommend having an 11/32 and M10x1.5 tap on hand to clean out the threads otherwise you will have a bad time. Now on for the review. Like many STEEDA products these jacking rails scream quality. I bought these jacking rails because STEEDA is the only company that I know of that has a bolt in solution. The powder coating appears to be tough and durable and I wanted a quicker solution to swapping out tires at the track, these let me do that. The reason for 4 out of 5 stars is because these jacking rails do not go all the way back to the rear pinch point jacking location, they could if they were longer but they do not, I was disappointed at this because I would like the jacking rails to extend the full length of the pinch weld so it is easier to lift the vehicle via hydraulic lift. It is my suggestion to STEEDA that they make a full length jacking rail since there are bolt holes at the rear of the vehicle in the same location where the rear of the jacking rail bolts in now just 8-10 inches further back.

Very nice product, ridiculously easy to install!!

So far i've done all mod work to my 2010 GT myself, in my garage, and on jack stands. I was looking for a way to save physical abuse to the pinch welds. I was watching Mustang Lifestyle on YouTube and saw them put Steeda bolt-on jacking rails on an S550 Mustang. Awesome! I was happy to see Steeda created some for the S197. When I saw they were available, I order them. Installation was easy. Being from Minnesota (my Mustang sits undercover during the winter months), the back two holes had a bit of crud and surface rust in them. To clean out the two 15mm bolt holes, I used a slightly undersized imperial tap and WD40 to clean the threads (tap, rinse, repeat). Job done! Now I am chomping at the bit to go out for a ride, but I will have to wait for the snow to melt and the salt to be washed away. Back to the S197 Jacking Rails... Awesome! Another great product by Steeda.