The team at Steeda has come out with a product all S197 Mustang customers have been waiting for: Ultra Lite Low-Profile Chassis Jacking Rails! Made in-house from the same material we have used to keep Fox Mustangs from flexing for 25+ years, these Jacking Rails feature CAD-designed, laser cut, high-strength steel brackets and stout 2" x 1-1/2" steel tubing.
Powdercoated wrinkle black for a low key, yet durable finish, these will last a lifetime under your 2005-2014Ford Mustang. Unlike the competition, Steeda includes zinc-plated, flange-headed, grade 10.9 hardware - a simple bolt-in design that can be removed at any time as they use factory mounting holes. These allow you to jack up your Mustang with confidence anywhere along the jacking rail, preventing damage to your factory pinch welds. They provide a great point for jack stands and 2 post lifts.
Lastly, these will work with Steeda Mustang Frame Rail & Torque Box Brace without interference. The rigid factory S197 chassis does not require subframe connectors but added chassis stiffening with minimal weight increase can be realized by fitting Steeda 555 5551 braces. The 555 5551 also provides for even more jacking points when used with jacking rails. Steeda's new Ultra Lite Low-Profile Chassis Jacking Rails add convenience and function to your American made muscle car.
Fits Fastback coupe & convertible 2005-2014
Note: Will fit 2012-13 BOSS 302 Mustang, or any S197 Mustang equipped with the BOSS 302 quad-exhaust system.
Product Benefits- Allows you to jack up your S197 pony car anywhere along the jacking rail, preventing damage to your factory pinch welds
- Will work with Steeda Mustang Frame Rail & Torque Box Brace without interference
- Made in the USA using high-grade materials
Hi everybody Brian from Steeda and we've got something for you to be jacked up about. The Jacking Rails for the Ford Mustang S197 model years 2005-2014.
The Jacking Rails are named appropriately so they're Jacking Rails designed for you to raise and lower the car with more convenience versus trying to find the small locating tabs. I could say that's the end of the video but those of you that know me and the videos that we do, know there's plenty more content here. So let's carry on with their importance and how we make them. Alright first the importance. If you're doing work in your own garage or taking it to the local shop it's going to make locating the jacking points much easier because you have this full length to utilize the jack, to raise the car. Most of the time you can go centered right underneath the mirror or just behind the mirror and raise one whole side of the car with the jack. Obviously all safety concerns need to be followed here as far as jack stands and not being under a car without it being properly supported. The idea is for these to make that all easier. So simply put you put your jack under the front the back or toward the middle to raise an entire side of the car. This is great if you're at the drag strip, autocross or track day and you need to swap out tires or do some work to the car. It's also great if you're doing a long-term project any you need to put the car on jack stands at all four corners. You can utilize the full space you can go just to the front or just to the back and securely raise the car. From the factory Ford utilizes these small pinch welds and it's great for that scissor jack in a bind if you're stuck on the side of the road and need to replace a tire. They aren't really designed to host the jack and or the jack stands as far as what you're going to use in a garage. We're assuming that using a nice proper floor jack if you even try to use anywhere else along that pinch weld it's likely going to fold over. Even if you run into a job that's just a little bit too big to do at home, whether it's a space constraint, a tool constraint or all the above and you have to take the car to a shop. The shop will appreciate the jacking rails and the reason being is instead of them having to extend the legs of their lift really far underneath the car to try to catch the mounting points of the subframe, they can simply go to the jacking rail. What's really important and cool about this is it also saves them from having to extend those pads really high up because some of the shops that simply don't care unfortunately they do exist. Some of the shops that simply don't take quite as much care of your car as you would, sometimes can damage the rocker panels. So by having the jacking rails further out at the pinch welds not having the lift go so far into the car it helps prevent that makes it easier for the shop. They're happy and you're happy.
The Steeda Jacking Rails are constructed of high grade steel and the area that you'll utilize for jack stands or to raise the car is made of two inch by one inch steel. The two inch wide portion allows you to set the jack stands and or the jack under it easily. The one inch depth allows it to both be low profile meaning it sits up and close to the car but come down just far enough that's easy to locate so you can see past the pinch welds to the jacking rail. Once again making it easy to work on. If you're at the track if you're simply trying to get something done in the garage it makes it nice and easy to locate once again you take the car to the shop they will love the fact that you have these on the car.
The mounting brackets at each end are laser cut and then welded to the Jacking Rails. We finished these off in a black powder coat for durability and corrosion resistance. These are also backed by our lifetime warranty and proudly manufactured in the USA out of Valdosta, Georgia facility because Speed Matters!
Installation of these is really straightforward, we do recommend putting the car onto a drive on lift because the front subframe needs to be lowered a little bit. This also brings us to our next point, those front bolts the factory bolts due to the age of the car not that they're necessarily getting old but let's face it, the cars came out in 2005. Some of you guys are working on a car that's got some time on it. The reality is that as you're pulling those bolts out the threads may get marred a little bit and more importantly the threads in the body may also be well not in the best shape. So we do recommend a tap and die set and if those bolts really look pretty ugly contact your local Ford dealership ahead of time and get a couple of those replacement bolts. The rear bolts are provided. They're zinc plated for corrosion resistance as well. Now a couple of things that you can do to make your life a little bit easier, throughout the duration of these once again use a jack that has a jacking pad on it that's made of rubber or polyurethane, something to protect the powder coat. Same thing on your jack stands make sure they've got the rubber boots or the polyurethane boots on the ends of them to keep the surface of the jacking rail nice and clean. These things are subjected to a lot of elements being underneath the car and although you don't see them, anything you can do to help protect them will obviously help you in the long run.
If you have any questions or comments please post them below. If you've installed these already and have some tips like removing some of the seam sealer especially on the later S197s to get these things to fit up perfectly square, definitely post those below as our viewers love to see your feedback. Be sure to follow us on Social Media as well to see the latest and greatest things that we're up to with our Mustangs as well as other Ford vehicles and go to Steeda.com to learn more about the Jacking Rails as well as so many of the other products we offer for the S197 Mustang and other Ford vehicles. Thank you so much for watching and have a phenomenal day!
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