Steeda Ford Fusion 28.5 mm Rear Swaybar (2006-2012)

I just recently purchased this aftermarket Steeda 28.5mm rear swaybar for my 2010 Fusion 3.0L FWD SEL and just had it professionally installed (only took 30 mins). Just for comparisons sake, the OEM rear swaybar is only 14mm. So, when one reviewer compared the OEM to a toothpick, he wasn't kidding. The first thing I did was test drive the car with the new swaybar and could immediately tell the difference on turn-in in curves such as horseshoe off/on ramps on the highway. I had just installed the Steeda strut tower brace a week before and I think with the two parts working in unison, the performance upgrade is night and day - so much so that it inspires confidence on turns now when I was hesitant to push the car before the upgraded swaybar. It's wintertime now in the NorthEast, so I'm using my winter Bridgestone Blizzak wheel/tire set, but yet the vehicle still feels planted now. Before, the vehicle seemed to wallow on sharp turns and I blamed the soft tire compound. But now, even with the winter tires, it feels like an entirely different car. I can't wait for fall/summer to test the car with my summer wheel/tire set. This along with the strut tower brace are probably the best bang-for-your-buck handling upgrades you can buy for your Fusion with such unbelievable results. I've also purchased Steeda's CAI Power Pack with custom tune and upgraded my brakes on all four corners to Power Stop Z23 zinc plated crossed drilled/slotted rotors and carbon-fiber ceramic pads. I'm ecstatic with my Steeda purchases. Next purchase will be Steeda lowering springs next year. I've been a long-time Steeda fan and have purchased a whole list of parts from them for my pristine 2006 Kenne Bell Supercharged Mustang GT as well. So, I know their parts are reliable and worth buying. Great Job, Steeda!!!

Best mod I’ve ever done to my car. Very stiff with very little body roll

The sway bar is great. Overall, I can see a drastic improvement in my handling. It took me about 3 hours for the entire process because getting the old sway bar out was a pain. Also, as you can imagine, getting the new one in was just as hard. If you plan to get this, give yourself some time for the install, but it is completely worth it!

One hell of an improvement This bar has drastically improved my 2010 Milan's handling (yes it fits). It took me about 2 hours to install. I also had issues getting the old bar out, when after and hour of trying every way to get it out I was moving it around to reinstall it and try again later and it fell on my chest, so my install of the new bar was a snap after that. So I am now able to take clover leafs at 45 instead of the recommended 25 mph.

I added front and rear along with steeda springs and now it handles like a beast. Far better than factory.

When I pulled the stock sway bar out, I couldn't believe the difference in size. The stock bar looks like a toothpick to this beast. Installation took a little while. Getting the old bar out and getting the new bar in is like trying to figure out a puzzle. Only real issue was with step one of the instructions. Make sure you use an allen wrench to secure the bolt on the stock endlinks. You can refer to the instructions on the Steeda endlink replacement as well. After installation, immediately went for a drive. Took some hard U-turns and let the tires squeal a little bit. Car has very little roll, even with the tightest turns. Definitely recommend this with the strut tower brace.

It is hard to wrestle in, not much flex. Once you get it bolted in, the ride around the bends in the road is great. I really like it alot, wish I would have put it on a lot sooner. Great upgrade.

Just got done with the install on a 2010 Fusion SE 2.5L with the 6F35 trans. Yes, the 2010 have the welded in bracket, so there is less maneuvering room. The OEM bar was easy to take out if you follow the instructions. The 28mm Steeda bar was a pain to get back in. A majority of the time was spend trying to get the new thicker and more rigid bar back in. What I ended up doing was to remove the muffler and rear axle exhaust hangers. Make sure to support the exhaust under the muffler with something. Once the exhaust pipe was out of the way (I was fighting this for about 45 minutes!!!), the bar slid right in. One of the end link bolts spun when I was tightening them back up. I ended up using a needle nose vice grip to hold the back portion of the end-link, which allowed me to tighten the end link to 30 ft. lbs. I read here that you can also use an allen wrench from the top--wish I read that before I installed the sway bar! LOL. BTW good luck getting the torque wrench between the coil spring and the end link. Not going to happen. The bushings are greaseable via grease gunk. They have fittings and are of high quality. Don't give yourself a hard time if you scrape some of Steeda's nice finish off the bar during install. Mine looks like it's been through a sand storm. I actually kept the plastic on the bar while I was trying to install it. This saved it from looking worse. Another tip is to try to install the OEM sway bar after removing it. That way, you learn which way you have to pitch the Steeda Sway Bar. You might even save yourself some damage to the finish. The end result is worth it. Took it for a drive, and the car is planted around turns. Virtually no under-steer, too. Next project will be much easier: strut tower brace, which I will do later this evening. Four stars for the quality of the bar and the bushings. -1 star for Steeda's instructions. Instructions could have been more clear, but Steeda customers have common sense, so I guess that is why they left some tips (like dropping the exhaust from the axle back) out.