ReadyLIFT F-150 2.25'' Front Lift Kit (2015-2020)

$34.49 (13%)
MADE IN U. S. A - This ReadyLIFT CNC machined billet aluminum kit was designed specifically for the new 2015-UP Ford F-150 trucks. The strut positioning is different on 2015 trucks requiring the development of a new front lift system to lift the front of the 2015-2017 Ford F-150.

Part Number: 617 66-2215
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MADE IN U.S.A - This ReadyLIFT CNC machined billet aluminum kit was designed specifically for the new 2015-UP Ford F-150 trucks. The strut positioning is different on 2015 trucks requiring the development of a new front lift system to lift the front of the 2015-2017 Ford F-150. Using the highest grade material available - CNC Machined 6061-T6 billet, our engineered developed the ideal front lift system to bring the stance of the new F-150 trucks up to a near level position. A exact level stance is not achievable on 2015 4WD F-150 trucks due to the geometry of the front CV axles. 2.25" is the safest amount of front lift obtainable on these trucks while retaining the factory ride and geometry requirements.

For information about tire and wheel sizes please visit the ReadyLIFT Tire Sizing and Calculator Page. 

Installation is simple and requires no strut preloading, cutting, or modification of factory installed parts. While other kits cost thousands to buy and hours to install, ReadyLIFT® can be installed one to two hours and costs less than the price of a single custom wheel. And the 66-2215 front leveling kit qualifies for the ReadyGuard 5-year/60K Mile Power train Warranty. Visit for more information.

Product Benefits:

  • Keeps your factory ride - Guaranteed
  • Will never wear, break or fail - Guaranteed
  • Safest way to level lift - Guaranteed
  • CNC-machined billet aluminum construction with 10.9 rated mounting studs
  • Safely installs without compressing struts

NOTE:  Not for use on trucks that are factory pre-lifted/leveled or that have the "off-road package".  To ensure proper leveling kit fitment, using a plumb bob line (for a clean vertical) to measure from the center of the wheel hub to the bottom edge of the fender at the 12 o'clock position while the wheels are pointing straight forward.  If this measurement is greater than 22" then the truck already has some factory front lift compared to a base truck.  For distances measuring greater than 22"as described above, #66-2215 IS NOT the correct kit. For distances measuring greater than 22" as described above, #66-2215 IS NOT the correct kit.  Use #66-2052 1.5" Leveling Kit to ensure proper front lift height and suspension geometry.  Incorrectly using 66-2215 on a truck with 22" distance may result in UCA suspension component interference and/or excessive ball joint wear


CA Residents: Cancer and Reproductive Harm WARNING

Hi everybody Brian from Here today to show you an installation video on a very popular item for the 2015 and up F-150. Now this is a leveling kit made by ReadyLift that's going to level out the front of the truck up or bring the front of the truck up about two and a quarter inches At this point, I'm going to turn it over to Steve. Ok today we're going to be installing the ReadyLIFT two and a quarter inch lift. It's two aluminum brackets that sit on top of the spring. They raise the vehicle body and give it a more level stance. We're going to be removing the nut for the upper ball joint. The nut for the outer tie rod. The nut for the sway bar. We're going to be removing the dust cap and the nut holding the half shaft. We're going to be taking all the bolts that hold the mounting hardware for these brake lines and electrical and vacuum line. Also I'm going to be taking the eight ABS line disconnect it from the factory wiring harness to give it, facilitate a little bit extra clearance so we're not tensioning the ABS line to the point where I might get damaged. Then we're going to take the 3 nuts that hold its strut assembly to the shock tower and the 2 nuts holding the bottom of the shock assembly. Okay we're going to get started on it I've got an 8 millimeter socket I'm going to be taking the ABS line off. It's just a little step bolt and then I'm never using a 10 millimeter socket to take the 2 break lines loose. Now I'm going to be separating all the lines from their holders. ABS line, this is a vacuum hose and this is the brake line. So I'm going to disconnect to break that vacuum line and it just pulls off it's very tight. That's the vacuum line if you pull off. Okay I'm going to be taking this dust cap off and you're going to be using a 13 millimeter socket to take the half shaft off. So now I'm gonna start taking the upper ball joint off. Okay if it starts spinning on you just get an 8 millimeter wrench, just to hold it. I'm gonna take it almost all the way off and you just hold on. I’m going to take the rest of the nuts off and then I'm going to be supporting the whole arm so because it gets quite heavy and a little bit cumbersome. So now I'm going to do the sway bar. Okay with this nut for the upper ball joint and the sway bar nut I use a 17 millimeter ratcheting wrench. You don't need a ratcheting wrench but it sure does make the job a lot easier. Now for the outer tie rod end, it's a 21 millimeter. I got lucky it came loose by itself. This truck is brand new if you have a vehicle that has some miles on it the tapered corner goes into the aluminum housing and it gets locked in there. All you have to do is hit this edge right here with a hammer and it will dislodge it. That's a trick of the trade. Now we're going to be take away the nuts that hold this shock in place. Alright okay so we're gonna take the 3 upper nuts off. Again I'm using an 18 millimeter ratcheting wrench but you can use a regular wrench just will take a little bit longer. Okay so now I have the whole assembly it's loose before I do anything more I'm going to mark this so I know which is the outside and now the reason it will become apparent shortly. Okay now I'm going to support this whole assembly, finish taking this nut off and then swing, swing the whole assembly out. Now this is the part where you might need another person. You have to pry, pry up on the arm and you have to pry down in the lower arm. Okay there you have the whole assembly. Okay we're going to be installing this piece. The lift kit on top and it's going to raise the studs up quite a bit so you saw the effort I had to give to get this out putting it back in with, with everything there's a lot more effort. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to drive these studs out. That'll help a little bit and then when we'll put it back together again and you just draw it draw it tight with the nuts. Now the only other thing we got to do, you have to collapse the spring and then you have to rotate this top plate 180 degrees. So where it says out is on this side here. Okay I've marked at 180 degrees I'm going to hold this shock so it doesn't rotate and I'm going to move, okay. I compress the springs to relieve tension on the upper plate, rotated at 180 degrees. All right I'm going to drive these studs out you're going to be careful if you hit it squarely on the head and not damage any of your threads. You do the sway bar, reattach the sway bar. This is, I'm going to reattach the vacuum line it goes on these two fittings. Now I'm going to go ahead and I'm going to reattach all the lines I took off earlier. I'm reattaching the brake lines, the vacuum line and the ABS line. Again the breakline is a 10 millimeter socket on these 2 points and the ABS line is an 8 millimeter socket and then put all the clips back in they just push it lock in place, plastic pieces. Right now I'm going I'm going to go ahead and reattach the clip to the factory wiring harness and just stick it up there and reattach it. All right, now I'm going to go ahead and tighten the 3 upper nuts. Again I'll be using an 18 millimeter ratchet wrench. 2, and now I'm going to tighten lower shock We're gonna reattach the outer tie rod end. Okay I'm gonna go ahead and reattach the half shaft with the nut here. Okay this is a 13 millimeter socket. The 2 bottom nuts, they go to 110. This is a sway bar end link and then torque that to 40 foot pounds. Okay this is the lower shock mounting nuts. It gets torqued to 110. Okay, Okay, and then over here we're going to torque the axle nut to 20. All right. The upper ball joint gets torque to 85. Okay and we reinstall the dust cover.
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Fitment & Features


Manufacturer: ReadyLIFT

Vehicle Fitment:

Fits Model Year: 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
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